James Warren Whittaker

Jim Whittaker

February 10, 1929 - April 7, 2026

Jim Whittaker, born February 10, 1929, in Seattle, Washington, to Hortense Elizabeth and Charles Bernard Whittaker, passed away peacefully at his home in Port Townsend, Washington on the night of April 7th, surrounded by family and loved ones. He was 97.

Jim lived an extraordinary life devoted to adventure, stewardship, service, and family. In 1963, he became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, a milestone that inspired generations of climbers and explorers and helped ignite America's modern mountaineering movement. He remained closely connected to the climbing community throughout his life, including decades of leadership and service with The Mountaineers.

In 1978, Jim led the first American ascent of K2, placing four Americans on the summit of the world's second-highest peak. In 1990, he organized and led the historic Mount Everest International Peace Climb, which brought together climbers from the United States, the Soviet Union, and China to demonstrate what could be accomplished through cooperation and goodwill. The expedition sent twenty climbers to the summit and was recognized by Guinness World Records as the most successful climb in Everest history. Jim was a lifelong advocate for peace and believed deeply in the ability of shared challenges in the natural world to unite people across borders and ideologies.

Beyond mountaineering, Jim was a pioneer in outdoor leadership as the first full-time employee and later President and CEO of REI, helping transform a small cooperative into a global force for outdoor recreation and environmental stewardship.

Jim was also an accomplished sailor. With his wife Dianne Roberts he competed multiple times in the Victoria-to-Maui International Yacht Race and later took his family on a four-year voyage across the Pacific Ocean. This experience reflected his lifelong spirit of exploration and his desire to share the world's wonders with those he loved most.

Jim's life intersected with history in many ways. In 1965, he led U.S. Attorney General Robert F. Kennedy on the first ascent of Mount Kennedy in the Canadian Yukon, a peak the Canadian government named in honor of President John F. Kennedy after his assassination. Jim formed a lasting friendship with Robert Kennedy, was present at his bedside when he died in 1968, and served as a pallbearer at his funeral. He remained close to the Kennedy family for the rest of his life.

To his family, Jim was first and foremost a devoted husband, father, grandfather, and great-grandfather. He loved deeply, gave generously of his time and encouragement, and took immense pride in his children and grandchildren. Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him. His warmth, humility, and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.

He is survived by his wife of 52 years, Dianne Roberts; his sons, Bob Whittaker, Joss Whittaker, and Leif Whittaker; his grandchildren, Adam Whittaker, Tony Whittaker, and Sarah Kanzler; and his great-granddaughter, Sophie Whittaker. He was predeceased by his older brother, Barney Whittaker, his identical twin brother, Lou Whittaker, and his sons, Carl Whittaker and Scott Whittaker.

The Whittaker family would like to express their deepest gratitude to the Jefferson Healthcare hospice team for their extraordinary support.

In lieu of flowers or gifts, the family invites people to honor Jim's memory by making a donation in his name to one of the following organizations: The Mountaineers <https://www.mountaineers.org>, the Northwest Maritime Center <https://nwmaritime.org/>, Washington's National Park Fund <https://wnpf.org/>, or the Hospice Foundation for Jefferson Healthcare <https://hospicefoundationjhc.org/how-we-help/>.

A public celebration of Jim's life will be planned by the family at a later date. Details will be shared when available.

A photo gallery from the family archives is available here: <https://dianneroberts.smugmug.com/Whittaker-FamilyFor-Media/n-qPBN2b>

For more information, including the official obituary, please visit: <https://www.cascadiadaily.com/2026/apr/08/famed-mountaineer-jim-whittaker-first-american-atop-mount-everest-dies-at-97/>